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Textile Chemistry

Code 15955
Year 1
Semester S2
ECTS Credits 6
Workload PL(30H)/T(30H)
Scientific area Industrial Chemistry
Entry requirements ---
Learning outcomes This UC aims to provide students with relevant concepts of chemical processing of textile materials, and the respective underlying technologies involved in the textile industry. It allows understanding the chemical-textile processes and sustainable solutions based on green chemistry and biotechnological strategies for the modernization of the textile industry.
At the end of the UC, the student should:
- Understand the chemistry of textile fibers and the most relevant chemical processing in the textile industry
- Know the structure and chemical composition, and functional groups involved in the reactivity of textile fibers
- Understand the chemistry of dyes and their relationship with textile fibers
- Know the influence of different physical-chemical and thermodynamic parameters in dyeing processes
- Know the main chemical treatments of textile materials, and emerging and sustainable technologies
- To be able to propose sustainable solutions to problems faced in the textile industry
Syllabus 1 Textile fibers: Classification, composition and chemical and macromolecular structure. Effect of acids, alkalis, reducing agents, oxidants, enzymes and salts. Physicochemical properties.
1.1 Chemical pre-treatments of textile fibers: alkaline treatment, bleaching, mercerization, washing, etc.
1.2 Chemical processing control parameters: Alkaline solubility, Acid and alkali content, pH of the aqueous extract, Content of cystine, hydrocelluloses and oxycelluloses, etc.
2 Relationship between the physical and chemical structure of fibers and that of dyes. Dye classification
2.1 Factors that influence dyeing processes.
2.2 Dyeing processes (impregnation/exhaustion) on natural, artificial and synthetic fibers with different classes of dyes.
2.3 Quality control and environmental implications of dyeing.
2.4 Biodyeing
3 Chemical and biotechnological finishes: fundamentals, processes and applications.
4 Basics of printing.
5 Emerging and sustainable technologies
Main Bibliography Gouveia, Isabel C. & Lucas, J. M. (2003) Química Têxtil. Universidade da Beira Interior, Covilhã.
Artigos científicos sobre tinturaria, funcionalização e bioaticvidade.

Gouveia, I.C., Mouro, C. (2025). Engineering electrospun fibers for encapsulation of
essential oils and essential fatty acids, in: Electrospinning and Electrospraying
Encapsulation of Food Bioactive Compounds (Ed. Hadis Rostamabadi, Seid Reza Falsafi,
and Yangchao Luo), Elsevier

Shanmugasundaram, O.L. (2022). Applications of biotechnology for sustainable textile production. In Elsevier eBooks. https://doi.org/10.1016/c2020-0-02482-5. Capítulos 5 e 11
European Union Green Deal. (2023). Sustainability and Circularity of Textiles by 2030 (pp. 1–2).
https://doi.org/10.2779/869921
Provin, A. P., Dutra, A. R., Gouveia, I. C., & Cubas, A. L. V. (2021). Circular economy for fashion industry: Use of waste from the food industry for the production of biotextiles. Technological Forecasting and Social Change,169, 12085
Teaching Methodologies and Assessment Criteria Theoretical and practical classes, with application of theoretically presented concepts in the resolution of application exercises. Research and monitoring of technological advances.
Laboratory work (LW) aimed at carrying out textile chemical processes and treatments throughout the entire process, such as alkaline boiling, bleaching and the respective measurement of oxycelluloses caused in cotton; fat extraction and quantification of acid content and pH of the wool aqueous extract; performing dyeing of polyester, cotton, wool, and their blends; bioactive and antimicrobial finishing processes; fire-retardant and hydrophobic finishing; printing with reactive dyes, etc.
The LW are accompanied by an oral presentation and defense of the respective reports (25% weighting)
Group realization of a project related to a more sustainable chemical-textile process, and its defense after a presentation (weighting 15%)
Realization of 1 theoretical test (60% weighting).
Language Portuguese. Tutorial support is available in English.
Last updated on: 2026-04-01

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