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Laboratory of Woven Design

Code 16424
Year 3
Semester S1
ECTS Credits 6
Workload PL(30H)/T(30H)/TP(15H)
Scientific area Ciência e Tecnologia Têxteis
Entry requirements Not applicable
Learning outcomes To know the woven fabric concept and the weaves parameters.
To know the weaves of simple woven fabrics, colour effects and patterns
To know the technical parameters of woven fabrics, their analysis methodology and influence on performance
To develop capacities to draw patterns of warp and weft fabrics, in simple fabrics, fundamental weaves and the derived from these
To develop skills for the design project of woven fabric, through the ability to draw patterns in the CAD system, using warp and weft yarns, colour sequences, yarn densities and weaves
To develop capacities to relate the materials, the structural characteristics, the concept of use and aesthetic values, as well as the quality level determined by the market.
Syllabus 1. Notion of fabric
1.1 Warp, weft, weave
1.2 Technology of fabrics: raw-material, yarn count, yarn densities, weave, weight/m2 and finishing
2. Weave
2.1 Parameters characterizing weaves: size, advancement, float, weaving point
2.2 Weave and numeric representation
3. Simple fabrics
3.1 Fundamental weaves: plain weave, twill and satin
3.2 Weaves derived from the fundamental ones.
4. Coloured effects on fabrics.
5. Drawing-in-draft and drawing-in.
6. Fabric analysis.
6.1 Structural parameters of fabrics
6.2 Laboratory methodology of analysis
7. Design of fabrics project. Project methodology involving the relationship between the concept of use, the effects
and aesthetic values, the materials, the structural characteristics of fabrics (yarns, colour sequences, weave and
weight/m2), the performance properties during garment making and during wear and the total quality level
determined by the market.
Main Bibliography A. Johnston & C. HallettFormat, (2021), Fabric for Fashion: The Swatch Book, Second Edition, Publisher Laurence King Publishing, London, UK
A. Majumdar, (2016), Principles of Woven Fabric Manufacturing, CRC Press, Taylor & Francis Group
B.K. Behera & P.K. Hari, (2010), Woven Textile Structure: Theory and Applications, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles
J. Steed & F. Stevenson, (2012), Basics Textile Design 01: Sourcing Ideas: Researching Colour, Surface, Structure, Texture and Pattern, Bloomsbury
R.A.L. Miguel, (2007), Tecnologia dos Tecidos – Apontamentos, UBI/DCTT, Covilhã.
R.A.L. Miguel, (2007), Estrutura de Tecidos – Guia de Aulas Práticas, UBI/DCTT, Covilhã.
R. Nayak, (2019), Sustainable Technologies for Fashion and Textiles, The Textile Institute
R. Sinclair, (2014), Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology, Publisher Elsevier Science & Technology, Imprint Woodhead Publishing, Cambridge, UK
Language Portuguese. Tutorial support is available in English.
Last updated on: 2023-10-09

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